Home Model Reni Eddo-Lodge On The ‘Blackfishing’ Phenomenon

Reni Eddo-Lodge On The ‘Blackfishing’ Phenomenon

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We have been besieged by a new female body standard. Big breasts, a dimension deceiving waist, a flat stomach, big thighs and incredibly wide hips reign supreme on the internet. Of course, many women have always looked like this, and a lot of those women happen to be black.

But in the last five years, this body shape has become fashionable. It’s a far cry from the supermodel standard of the 90s and 2000s.

Mega brands like Fashion Nova, popularised by Instagram influencer partnerships (this week it was announced as Google’s most-searched fashion brand) model their clothes on slim but curvy women. The influencers who advertise their clothes have that body type too. It would be remiss not to mention the Kardashian Jenners, two of whom have been the modern day pioneers of this body standard.

The body takes centre stage in Instagram’s blackfishing scandal. White women, such as instagram influencers Aga Brzostowska or Emma Hallberg, are accused of masquerading as black or mixed race women while racking up social media approval and brand collaborations.

Their images – awash with loose curls, braids, precise makeup, and figure hugging outfits – revel in a kind of ethnic ambiguity. Neither Aga or Emma have ever explicitly claimed to be black, but the racial vagueness of their social output appears to be part of the charm.

I hear black women lament that this is a kind of appropriation. The contention rests not only on the blackfisher’s tans, curls, braids and dark shades of foundation, but their bodies. Their body shapes have been claimed as black.

They want our bodies without the struggle. They want the rhythm without the blues. Skin, body, style: all of it is celebrated on lighter skinned women and deemed uncouth on women of colour.

To some extent, I agree with the appropriation argument. It’s galling to watch the hairstyles and fashion trends of financially deprived yet culturally celebrated communities taken on in a costume-like fashion. In the United States, where these conversations rage deeply, the average white family enjoys ten times the net worth of their black counterparts. And black women do tend to have a different kind of body shape compared to the white norm.

A decade ago, a study published in the British Journal of Nutrition suggested that BMI as a measurement might not work as effectively on people of colour. “This scale was created years ago and is based on Caucasian men and women” one of the researchers noted.

Still, the accusations of appropriation don’t quite hit the mark for me. The blackfishing women of Instagram are inhabiting a kind of caricature. In their posts, they represent a stereotype of what the ideal black woman’s body should look like.

We are undergoing a collective cognitive dissonance. Online, black women are overwhelmingly represented by images of us with big breasts, tiny waists, a flat stomach, thick thighs, very wide hips, and a big bum. Offline, lots of black women have one or more of those attributes, but very rarely all of them combined. We are tall and short, fat or thin, pear shaped, pot bellied.

I spend time around talented, intelligent and image conscious black women on a regular basis. Very few actually look like the black Jessica Rabbit. That’s why there are social media accounts dedicated to collating images of women who do (some accounts of which the blackfishing women ended up being celebrated on, unchallenged).

This racialised body standard is as unattainable as white runway model thinness. It seems to be down to a strenuous training routine, a random assortment of genetics, or Brazilian butt lift surgery.

Yet we find ourselves getting defensive about it. We claim that the blackfishing women of Instagram are stealing black women’s style (a fair-ish charge, although you can swap bodycon and heels for vintage and trainers without losing your black card) or our body shapes – without acknowledging that many of our bodies don’t look like that.

In an interview with Broadly, singer K Michelle spoke candidly about the dodgy bum injections that boosted her career. “I saw how society and how people treated me. I’ve been the same girl singing the same songs, and now all of a sudden the songs were taking legs. I’m signed to Atlantic Records, and I’m curvy, and I’m pretty.” This is the problem. That a talented black woman singer is embraced by her industry only after she fulfil ideas of what her bum should look like is a gross narrowing of her creative freedom. After five years, the injections make K Michelle drastically unwell. She had to have the substance removed from her body.

Instead of defending the new body standard because we’re worried about it being appropriated, I implore black women to reject it all together. It’s not serving us.

A ‘perfect’ black body ideal celebrated on social media is a sorry stand in for the transformative change of anti-racism and body diversity. It’s certainly not a solution to the gross underrepresentation of black women in public life.

It is nothing to defend. Embrace whatever body you have, and be free.

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